Sozni Embroidery: Preserving the Timeless Kashmiri Cultural Heritage

Table of Content

Sozni Artisans
The process of crafting Sozni Shawls involves the following steps
Motifs
Challenges faced by the artisans
Initiatives and Organization

In the dreamlike valleys of Jammu and Kashmir, where nature’s grandeur meets the ingenuity of human hands, the delicate handwork of Sozni ( or Shawl baafii ) serves as a testimony to centuries of enduring craftsmanship and the pantheistic admiration of nature by those dwelling in its lap. What’s remarkable about this classic and regal needlework is that the Kashmiri artisans have been practicing the fine craftsmanship of Sozni for over 500 years!

One of the unique features of Sozni embroidery is the use of a stitching technique known as “Dorukha”. In Dorukha stitching technique, the embroidery is executed in such a way the reverse side mirrors the embroidery in the front, resulting in a two-faced or double side-effect. This level of attention to detail and deftness is what makes Sozni embroidery delicate.

Pashmina Kashmiri shawls are celebrated for showcasing the nuanced Sozni artistry. Their lightweight and delicate fabric becomes the canvas for this exquisite embroidery, elevating their allure to one of sophistication. Thus, this enduring marriage between Pashmina and Sozni isn’t merely about ornamentation, it reflects the deliberate, unhurried pace, and the unwavering precision of the seasoned craftsmen, making each shawl a tribute to their steadfast commitment to artistry.

Sozni Artisans

Since its inception, the artisans practicing Sozni embroidery have predominantly been men hailing from the villages of Kashmir, many of whom primarily belonged to the farming community. Given that farming is not a year-round occupation, especially when the fields are blanketed with snow during the winter months, these skilled artisans transformed themselves into Sozni embroidery maestros during the cold season. They painstakingly embellish shawls, stoles and various fabrics with their intricate handiwork.

Kashmiri textile artisans have a rich history of incorporating external influences and resources into their techniques. This is evident in the diverse embroidery skills that they have mastered, including Sozni, crewl, chain-stitch or zalakdozi, and aari work. Situated along the trade routes of Central Asia, the Kashmir valley has long been a hub of commerce, with trade flourishing during the Mughal rule from 1586-1753. Notably, Emperor Akbar displayed a personal fascination with Kashmiri crafts, particularly the intricate twill-tapestry or kani shawl weaving industry.

The Kashmir shawl renowned for its exquisite craftsmanship, became a sort-after export commodity to Europe in the 18th and early 19th centuries. A fact well-documented in history. Presently, the most skilled Sozni embroidery can be found in the capital city of Srinagar. Although predominantly practiced by men, it is noteworthy that some women have also embraced this needlework artistry in the present moment, contributing to its continued evolution in the region.

The process of crafting Sozni Shawls involves the following steps:

Preparing the designs:

A local designer, locally referred to as Naqsh, begins the process by preparing a design for the shawl on tracing paper. Using precise geometrical methods, they carefully draw this design on a graph to guide the embroidery work. The design is either created by a senior Karigar (or artisan) or by the designer.

Tracing the design:

Using the design provided by the designer, a new wooden block is meticulously carved to match the pattern. This custom-made block is then utilized to imprint the design onto the fabric. This step is not always a part of the process, as stamps created decades ago are still in use for imprinting the design onto the fabric.

Block Printing the Design. Image Credits: Google Arts and Culture

Application of the design:

Traditionally, the wooden block is filled with a mixture of charcoal and chalk paste. The application of these materials onto the fabric is executed meticulously to ensure that the imprints are endured during the embroidery process. The delicate stamping phase demands the skilled and steady hands of experienced craftsmen to achieve precision and accuracy.

Embroidering the shawl:

Once the imprints are in place, the embroiderer employs a fine needle and top- quality silk or cotton thread to execute the embroidery, ensuring that the shawl retains its finesse and lightness. This intricate embroidery process demands significant dedication and immense concentration.It is important to note that the artisan who initiates the embroidery is typically the one who completes it, as the style and the finesse of the work can vary from person to person.

Embroidering the cloth. Image Credits: Google Art and Culture

Finishing work:

Upon completion of the embroidery, the shawl undergoes a final finishing and cleaning process. The washing is quite a labor-intensive process, as it requires free-flowing water and tough hands to manage the task with efficiency.

Motifs:

Typically, artisans are expected to dedicate 6 to 8 hours each day to their work, along with necessary breaks. The dexterity required for the creation of Sozni embroidery demands a high degree of precision and unwavering attention to detail. This is particularly vital as some designs and motifs are so densely embroidered that they cover a significant portion of the fabric. Here’s more about the motifs that render an aesthetic appeal to Sozni embroidery:

Paisley Patterns: Paisley motifs also referred to as ‘buta’ are a staple in Sozni embroidery. These tear-drop-shaped patterns can be found in various sizes and orientations, adding a touch of refinement to the shawls and other textiles.
Geometric designs: Abstract geometric designs are widely used in Sozni embroidery. These include squares, diamonds, rectangles, and other shapes, often arranged in symmetrical and harmonious compositions, creating a visually alluring effect.
Stylized flowers: Flowers designs like marigolds, daffodils, and Chinar leaves are intricately woven into the fabric. The natural, delicate look of these nature-inspired motifs beautifies the textile.
Creepers and vines: Delicate creeper and vine motifs are also frequently featured in Sozni embroidery. They bring a sense of movement and grace to the designs. These meandering designs are an essential part of the artisan’s repertoire.

Challenges faced by the artisans:

Sozni artisans, like many traditional craftsmen, have been facing several challenges in preserving and continuing their craft. The advent of machine-made textiles and mass production has led to competition with lower-priced alternatives. Furthermore, the ongoing territorial conflict in the contested region and Covid-19 lockdowns had cast a shadow on the production of Sozni embroidery. Sozni embroidery is a painstakingly labor-intensive process and can be challenging to compete with cheaper, machine-made products. Additionally, access to high-quality materials, workspaces, and tools can be a challenge to artisans. Improving infrastructure and ensuring a steady supply of resources is essential for maintaining the craft’s quality. As far as compensation is concerned, many artisans do not receive fair compensation for their work.

Initiatives and Organization:

In 2022, the Jammu and Kashmir government’s handicraft department launched a promising “Craft Safari” initiative, which has been seen as a beacon of hope by many artisans in the region. The Craft Safari offers guide tours, bringing together a diverse group of participants, including tour guides, academics, journalists, employees, students and more to witness the skilled artisans of Srinagar city at work. These artisans continue to practice centuries-old handicraft traditions in various mediums such as paper mache, wood-carving and silk carpets.

In response to the challenge of machine-made crafts being fraudulently marketed as handmade, artisans have taken the initiative by forming local associations. These associations have achieved the remarkable feat of obtaining geographical indications, which certify the authenticity of their handmade products. Notably, out of Srinagar’s 10 unique historic crafts, seven have been granted geographical indications, offering protection against the misleading sale of machine-made items under the guise of handicrafts. These designations are a crucial step towards ensuring the rightful recognition and economic sustenance of traditional artisans.

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