Arts and Crafts map of Andhra Pradesh and Telangana

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By Smriti Sahu

  • Folklore
  • Culture
  • India
  • Art
  • Community
  • Folk Art

    • Andhra Pradesh and Telangana were once home to powerful dynasties such as the Satavahanas, Chalukyas and Mughals, each leaving a rich legacy of art, cuisine and cultural fusion. The arts and delicacies of these regions reflect a tapestry of diverse influences, with embedded stories that capture the spirit of their history. Let’s dive into some of the remarkable crafts and artistic traditions that bring attention to the vibrant cultural diversity of these two states:

     

    Tree of Life: Kalamkari painting by Harinath.N

     

    Srikalahasti in Chittoor district and Machichilipatnam in Krishna district of Andhra Pradesh are two of the most important centres of Kalamkari in India. The term Kalamkari precisely translates to “ work done with a pen.” The word ‘Kalamkari’ applies to hand- painted and block-printed art forms in the present scenario. Historically, the hand painted textiles from Srikalahasti acted as backdrops for temple deities. The themes were influenced by Hinduism and elements of nature. The motifs of Machilipatnam are typically multicultural, fusing indigenous themes with patterns borrowed from Persian and European influences. In the traditional method, the cloth is initially treated with a special mixture. A framework is drawn using a charcoal pencil made using a tamarind twig, and a bamboo pen is used for colouring. For the block-printed textile made in Machilipatnam, a proper framework is not necessary for making prints, but the production is collaborative. 

    Cheriyal Scroll Painting

     

    Rural Village Life in Cheriyal

     

    Back in the day, traditional storytellers of Telangana would travel from one village to another, enumerating tales and accounts of legendary heroes, and historical occurrences while unfolding fascinating handmade scroll paintings. These scroll paintings known as Cheriyal are composed of themes from Hindu epics, like the Ramayana, gods and goddesses, rural life and local anecdotes. The base of the paintings comprises of handwoven khadi fabrics. A stiff canvas is created using rice starch, tamarind seeds, and lac solution. Well-defined outlines are created free hand. Bold solid colours, with red as a background, are generously incorporated by the artisans to give a vivid and alluring look to the final picture. Colours for Cheriyal are procured naturally from organic materials like seashells and stones.

    Cheriyal Masks

     

    Man and Woman in Cheriyal Mask

     

    Mask-making tradition in the Cheriyal village of Telangana is a fascinating craft that represents the characters from traditional scroll art. The raw materials used in the preparation of the mould are sustainably sourced from locally available organic materials like sawdust and tamarind paste. The mould is then covered with a khadi cloth over which white paint is applied. The making requires a lot of care and patience, as the process is labour-intensive and time-consuming. Facial details, which include hairs, lips, and eyes are added in different colours. Like the scroll paintings, the making of Cheriyal masks also involves the usage of bold colours. These masks now serve as appealing decorating objects.

    Bidri Craft 

     

    Bidriware

     

    As a distinguished handicraft of Andhra Pradesh and Karnataka, “Bidri” or “Bidari” craft is known for its fine metalworks, characterised by inlaying or overlaying silver, brass or gold on the designs made out of an alloy of zinc and copper. This intricate craft originated in Persia and the artisans who travelled from Persia to Bidar, imparted their expertise to the Bidri workers of Karnataka and Hyderabad, enabling them to create impressive pieces for the royal families. Not just the technique, but even the geometrical and floral patterns used here are inspired by the themes used in Mughal art. The Salar Jung Museum at Hyderabad has an impressive collection of Bidri from the 16th to the 20th century.  Some of the objects include - huqqa (hubble- bubble), gulab pash ( rose water sprinkler), dibba (small box), and pandan (box of betel).

    Budhiti Bell and Brass Craft

     

    Brass Craft

     

    Budhiti village of Andhra Pradesh was once a thriving hub of the traditional bell and brass metalcraft. Although it is not as prosperous as it once was, the region’s exquisite brassware is of immense importance even today. The Golden brass, an alloy primarily composed of copper and zinc, is dexterously beaten and moulded using the centuries-old traditional technique of casting to make ornate items, traditional utensils and utility products. An interesting feature of the Budhiti bell metal craft is making mirrors from the bell metal. In the Indian subcontinent, brassware is highly favoured not only for its lustrous appearance but also for its purported health benefits. 

    Kondapalli toys

     

    Kondapalli Wooden Toys

     

    Lightweight and vibrant-coloured, Kondapalli toys are iconic and made using traditional crafting techniques. The wood items are first treated to remove moisture and individual images are carved. Finally, all the components are assembled using tamarind adhesive. The artisans who are involved in the making of these toys are called Aryakshatrias. It is believed that the forebearers of Kondapalli toymakers migrated to Kondapalli from Rajasthan around the 16th century bringing with them the art of crafting the toys. In recent times, oil paints have replaced the vegetable dyes that were once used in the colouring of toys. The toys depict a variety of traditional subjects including Kondapalli soldiers, ambaris (decorated elephants), scenes of rural life, and characters and episodes from Hindu texts. 

    Etikoppaka Bommalu

     

    Etikoppaka toys

     

    Etikoppaka toys are renowned for their brilliant colours, rounded edges, and eco-friendly production methods, making them safe and durable playthings for children. Infused with cultural elements, these traditional toys are created in the Etikoppaka district of Andhra Pradesh. Etikoppaka toys are crafted using lac, a colourless resin secreted by certain insects. Through an oxidation process, vegetable dyes are mixed with the lac to produce a brightly coloured lacquer. This technique gives the toys their vibrant, characteristic hue. 

    Nirmal toys

     

    Angry Tiger In Nirmal toys by Sai Kiran

     

    The Nirmal city of Andhra Pradesh is called the land of toys. The toys are skillfully crafted from finely carved wood.  Nirmal toys are crafted by the Naqqash artisans who are said to have migrated from Rajasthan in the 17th century, bringing this craft with them. To colour their toys the artisans use indigenous minerals and local dyes. It is said that the Nizam of Hyderabad was quite fascinated by the Nirmal artisanship. 

    Durgi Stone Craft

     

    Durgi Stone Craft

     

    The temple town villages of Durgi and Allagadda in the Palnadu district of Andhra Pradesh are famous for their intricate stone carvings. The carvings are made of soft limestone which is locally known as SuddaRai. An interesting feature of these whitish-grey stones is that they have a smooth texture making them perfect for carving detailed sculptures of Gods and Goddesses. The finished pieces exhibit a unique glittery appearance due to the nature of the stones. The art of carving on such soft stones dates back to the 3rd century CE. While carving sculptures, the craftsmen follow the techniques mentioned in the Shilp Shastra. 

    Eluru Carpet

     

     

    Another craft that showcases floral and geometric patterns in Andhra Pradesh is the Eluru carpet. Cotton yarn and hand-spun wool are employed to craft the carpet. Once a household activity, carpet weaving has evolved into a commercial enterprise, with its roots tracing centuries. Eluru carpets are also referred to as Deccan rugs, honouring the patronage of the Deccan rulers. Ambarcha, jampal, babul, and guava are frequently featured in designs on this carpet.

    Telia Rumal 

     

    Telia Rumal 

     

    Telia rumals are more than just any ordinary handkerchief. Telia stands for oil and the term rumal means handkerchief. In the traditional process, the yarn is treated with sesame and castor seed oil along with sheep dung for 21 days. The cloth gained a lot of popularity under the Nizam rulers in Telangana before independence. The cloth was adorned as turbans by the landowners to mark their status. The same cloth was used by the fishermen of Chirala as a lion cloth because the red colour and the oily fragrance of the cloth played an important role in attracting the fish. The handmade telia rumals from the 19th century had only geometric patterns which were then replaced by figurative designs such as lions, birds, clocks, and aeroplanes in the early part of the 20th century.  

    Dharmavaram Silk Sarees

     

    Silk Sarees

     

    Located at a distance of 47 km from Anantapur district in the state of Andhra Pradesh, Dharmavaram is renowned for its splendid silk sarees. Broad, solid colour borders and contrasting pallu with brocaded gold patterns are characteristic features of Dharmavaram sarees. Two main types of sarees are woven in Dharmavaram- Kuttu and Lattu. Kuttu sarees feature contrasting borders and pallu, with the entire weft woven in a single colour, here the weaving process is slow. The Lattu sarees are characterized by self-borders and pallus. The weaving process of Lattu sarees is quick, aligning with contemporary trends and fashion. These sarees are also used to create costumes for Bharatanatyam and Kuchipuddi dancers. 

    Mangalagiri Sarees

     

    Mangalagiri Sarees

     

    Mangalagiri sarees, recognized as a geographical indication under the Geographical Indication of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act of 1999 are crafted through a nimble weaving technique. Beyond the practical purpose, Mangalagiri sarees hold a cultural significance. These sarees are highly favoured for the devotional ritual at the Lord Narsimha temple. Mangalagiri sarees attained the GI Tag in 2010 under the Geographical Indication of Good Act of 1999. Mangalagiri sarees are designed in Nizam style, with its pallu adorned with stripped golden embroidery.

    Pochampally Sarees

    A symphony of geometry and subtle colours accentuate the intrinsic quality of the age-old Pochampally saree in the Nalgonda district of Andhra Pradesh. The history of manufacturing Pochampally Ikat saree dates back to the 1800s. The exquisite Pochampally saree is the outcome of weaving the finest cotton and silk. The characteristic features of Pochampally Ikat sarees are defined by their big, bold and bright patterns. Ikat is a type of weaving where the warp, weft or both are tie-dyed before weaving to create designs in the finished fabric. 

    Dhokra Craft

     

    Dokra Metal Crafts

     

    Dhokra is an ancient bell metal craft practised by the Ojha metal smiths across states like Jharkhand, Chhattisgarh, Odisha, West Bengal, and Telangana. This tribal metal craft technique is practised in Jainoor Mandal, Komaram Bheem Asifabad district of Telangana. Dhokra craft involves the lost iron technique for casting the metal. This technique is complex and time-consuming but not new to India. Lost wax casting has been practised in India for more than 4000 years. It is indeed an interesting fact that the same metallurgy is still followed by many metalsmiths in India. Some of the ideas that are recurrently adopted in creating dhokra craft include metal figurines, peacocks, bulls, horses and other such nature-inspired motifs. 

    References:

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