Bridal Jewelry Across India: A Legacy of Craft, Culture, and Captivating History

Posted on

By Vanirathi Nathani

  • Culture
  • India
  • Craft
  • Royals
  • Wedding

    • Table of Content

    Jewelry has always been more than just an accessory in India—it is a symbol of identity, culture, and tradition. Most bridal ornaments are deeply connected to the idea of celebrating femininity, prosperity, and protection. Across generations, brides have worn jewelry not just for beauty but also for the meanings they carry. Some pieces represent the blessing of gods, while others mark a woman's transition into married life. Many of these ornaments have fascinating histories, tied to ancient traditions, royal families, and even mythology.

    From the grand temple jewelry of South India, once meant to adorn deities, to the conch-shell bangles of Bengal, believed to bring marital bliss, every region in India has its unique jewelry traditions. Some pieces, like the Perak of Ladakh, are heirlooms passed down for centuries, while others, like the Chandanhaar of Himachal Pradesh, are believed to hold the blessings of the gods. The craftsmanship behind these ornaments is just as impressive as their meaning—goldsmiths, silversmiths, and tribal artisans have perfected these designs over centuries, ensuring that every bride wears a piece of history on her wedding day.

    Each ornament tells a story—whether it’s about love, power, devotion, or protection. Some pieces are inspired by nature, like Assam’s Junbiri, shaped like a crescent moon, while others, like Maharashtra’s Mundavalya, are worn to ward off negativity. Brides often inherit jewelry from their mothers and grandmothers, making them more than just decorations; they become treasures of memory and lineage.

    As we explore the bridal jewelry of different Indian states, we will uncover the captivating stories, beliefs, and craftsmanship behind each ornament—turning every piece into a doorway to the past.

    Jammu & Kashmir

    Dejharoos A pair of gold pendants hanging from the ears, Dejharoos symbolize marital commitment in Kashmiri Pandit weddings. They are traditionally gifted by the groom’s family and are believed to carry divine blessings for a happy married life.

     

    Dejharoos: Traditional gold pendants worn by Kashmiri Pandit brides, symbolizing marital commitment and divine blessings for a prosperous married life

    Ladakh

    Perak Perak, a turquoise-studded headpiece, is a Ladakhi bride’s prized possession. The captivating history behind Perak traces back to Tibetan influence, where each turquoise stone is believed to hold the wisdom and blessings of previous generations. Passed down through the maternal line, Perak is more than jewelry—it is a symbol of lineage, history, and spiritual protection.

     

    Himachal Pradesh 

    Chak and Chandanhaar Chak, a silver hairpiece, and Chandanhaar, a multi-layered necklace, are linked to Himachal’s royal history. An interesting tale tells of queens who wore these ornaments not only for beauty but also as a mark of their dominion.

    Punjab 

    The Saggi Phull is a beautiful, flower-like head ornament that Punjabi brides wear. It is usually made of gold or silver. It has captivating historical significance, as it was once worn by warrior women and queens as a mark of pride and strength. Later it became a symbol of prosperity and marital bliss. The central sagi was used to support the heavy hand-embroidered dupattas.  There are many variations to the central ornament of saggi - saggi phull, saggi uchhhi, motianwali saggi, saggi chandiari.

     

    Parineeti Chopra adorning a Saggi Phull in a still from movie Kesari

    Haryana 

    Shishphool and Hansli Shishphool, a forehead band, and Hansli, a thick silver neckpiece, are deeply tied to Haryanvi culture. It is said that the Hansli was once worn by warriors and later became a protective charm for brides. Borla, a spherical shaped ornament, is also part of traditional bridal jewelry. Another common jewelry is the Chhaj, or a frill-like ornament that covers the forehead. 

     

    Uttarakhand 

    In the picturesque region of Uttarakhand, bridal jewelry is deeply intertwined with the cultural and spiritual fabric of the land. Among the most cherished adornments are the Galobandh and Nathuli, which carry both aesthetic and symbolic importance. The Galobandh is a striking black thread necklace that is enhanced with delicate silver embellishments, making it an essential piece of Pahadi bridal attire. This necklace is not just a fashion statement but holds deep significance, symbolizing the strength and resilience of the bride's family. The black thread, often considered a protective charm, is believed to shield the bride from negative energies and evil forces, ensuring her well-being as she embarks on her new journey in life.

    On the other hand, the Nathuli, a large and ornate nose ring, holds a special place in Uttarakhand’s bridal jewelry tradition. The Nathuli is not just a piece of jewelry but a symbol of prosperity and the bride's family’s affluence. Worn with pride, the Nathuli represents wealth, fertility, and social status, and is often passed down through generations, signifying the continuity of family heritage. The size and intricacy of the Nathuli are often considered a reflection of the family's stature, with larger, more intricate designs being worn by brides from wealthier families.

    Both the Galobandh and Nathuli are not merely ornaments but carry the weight of Uttarakhand’s cultural legacy, binding the bride to her ancestral roots while marking her transition into a new chapter of life. These pieces are cherished not only for their beauty but also for their ability to convey profound cultural meanings, ensuring that the bride remains forever connected to the land and its traditions.

     

    Uttarakhand woman in traditional attire - nathuli & pichora

    Uttar Pradesh

    The Passa, a side headpiece, and the Chik, a gold choker, are often associated with Mughal and Awadhi traditions. A fascinating legend tells that noblewomen in the royal courts of Lucknow adorned themselves with these pieces to signify grace and elegance.

     

    Bride wearing passa and other bridal jewelry

     

    Rajasthan 

    Borla and Aad Borla, the round maang tikka, and Aad, a choker-style necklace, symbolize royal heritage. An interesting tale says that Rajput queens wore Aad as a sign of their high status.

     

    Gujarat 

    Chandlo and Moti Haar Chandlo, a round maang tikka, represents auspiciousness, while Moti Haar, a pearl necklace, symbolizes elegance and wisdom.

    Goa 

    In Goa, bridal jewelry is a blend of tradition and beauty, with the Poonchali and Gajra being two essential adornments. The Poonchali, a gold bangle, is worn by brides during their wedding ceremonies, symbolizing prosperity and marital bliss. The Gajra, a floral hair accessory, is intricately woven with fresh flowers, adding a touch of elegance to the bride’s appearance. The use of fresh flowers in the Gajra represents purity, renewal, and the bride’s new beginnings. Both pieces reflect Goa's rich cultural heritage, combining the beauty of nature with timeless craftsmanship in bridal adornment.

     

    Traditional Goan Chudo 

    Maharashtra 

    In Maharashtra, bridal jewelry is rich with symbolism, with the Mundavalya and Nath being two of the most iconic and significant pieces. The Mundavalya, a delicate string worn across the forehead, is a defining element of a Maharashtrian bride's ensemble. Traditionally made of pearls or gold beads, the Mundavalya is tied with a knot at the back and drapes over the bride’s forehead, symbolizing her readiness for marriage. The string signifies the bride's transition from her childhood into womanhood, marking the beginning of her new life with her spouse. Its simple yet elegant design reflects the beauty of Indian tradition and the sacred bond of marriage.

    The Nath, a large nose ring worn on the bride's left nostril, is another essential piece of jewelry with a captivating history. Often made of gold and intricately designed with diamonds or other precious stones, the Nath has deep cultural roots in Maharashtra, particularly in Maratha royalty. Maratha queens were known to wear ornate Naths as a sign of their regal status and power, and it became a symbol of strength and dignity. Over time, the Nath transitioned into a key element of the bridal look, with its historical connection to royalty and valor adding a layer of significance to the bride’s attire. The Nath is seen as a symbol of marital happiness and is believed to protect the bride from the evil eye.

    Both the Mundavalya and Nath carry profound cultural and historical meaning, tying the bride to her heritage while symbolizing her entry into a new chapter of life. These traditional adornments not only enhance the bride’s beauty but also serve as powerful reminders of the rich legacy of Maharashtra.

     

    Maharashtrian bridal look - completed with Mundavalya and nath

    Madhya Pradesh 

    The Kandora, a finely crafted waist belt, has been a significant ornament in Madhya Pradesh for centuries. Traditionally worn by brides from royal and noble families, it was originally made of gold or silver and encrusted with intricate carvings. The Rakhdi, a head ornament, holds deep cultural meaning, believed to protect the bride from negative energies and ensure a happy married life. Historical records suggest that Kandoras were also worn by warrior women as a symbol of strength and dignity. Over time, this ornament became a staple in bridal attire, symbolizing grace, heritage, and the rich craftsmanship of Madhya Pradesh.

    Chhattisgarh

    Bor Maang Tikka and Suta Haar, These silver ornaments are important in tribal weddings, with the Suta Haar symbolizing strength and resilience.

    Andhra Pradesh

    Temple jewelry from Andhra Pradesh has deep cultural and spiritual significance. Traditionally crafted to adorn the deities in temples, these exquisite pieces symbolize divinity, prosperity, and the eternal connection between the sacred and the earthly realm. The intricate designs are often inspired by religious motifs, with deities like Lakshmi, Saraswati, and Ganesha being commonly depicted. These designs are meticulously handcrafted using gold, silver, and precious stones, with the process often passed down through generations of artisans.

    The jewelry typically includes items like crowns (known as maharanis), necklaces, armlets, nose rings, and earrings, all of which are embellished with stones like diamonds, emeralds, and rubies. Each piece is not only a work of art but also holds spiritual significance, intended to bestow blessings upon the wearer, be it the deity or the person wearing it in a temple setting.

    Temple jewelry plays a significant role in cultural rituals and festivals in Andhra Pradesh, where it is often worn by priests or devotees during special ceremonies, symbolizing purity and divine favor. The designs and the use of precious metals also reflect the state's rich cultural heritage, preserving an age-old tradition that links spirituality with the art of adornment.

    Karnataka

    Netti Chutti and Lakshmi Haram These gold ornaments, decorated with Goddess Lakshmi motifs, are worn for blessings of wealth and fortune.

     

    Temple Jewellery, 19th century 

    Tamil Nadu 

    In Tamil Nadu, bridal jewelry holds deep cultural significance, with the Oddiyanam (gold waist belt) and Vanki (armlet) being two of the most revered adornments. These pieces have their roots in the ancient Sangam literature, which highlights their role in depicting the beauty and grace of women in classical Tamil society. The Oddiyanam, worn around the waist, is a gold belt that accentuates the bride’s figure and symbolizes fertility, prosperity, and feminine strength. It is often intricately designed, featuring traditional motifs and gemstones, making it a striking part of the bridal attire.

    The Vanki, an armlet worn on the upper arm, also has a rich heritage in Tamil tradition. In Sangam literature, it is described as a symbol of wealth and elegance, often worn by queens and noble women. Today, both the Oddiyanam and Vanki continue to be cherished by Tamil brides, representing beauty, heritage, and cultural pride.

     

    Traditional plait accessory, Tamil Nadu

    Kerala 

    Mullamottu Mala and Palakka Mala Mullamottu Mala, resembling jasmine buds, and Palakka Mala, inspired by Kerala’s lush greenery, signify prosperity.

     

    Telangana

    Satlada and Jada Billa Satlada, a seven-layer pearl necklace, and Jada Billa, a hair ornament, have fascinating connections to Nizam royalty.

     

    Nizami satlada harr 

    Assam 

    Junbiri and Gamkharu Junbiri, shaped like a crescent moon, and Gamkharu, a thick bracelet, hold captivating folklore about bravery and love. 

     

     

    Arunachal Pradesh

    Beaded Coin Necklaces These vibrant necklaces, made with beads and coins, are a representation of tribal heritage and wealth.

     

    Traditional beaded coin necklace

    Manipur 

    Khudang and Beaded Hairpieces Khudang, a gold choker, is an important part of Manipuri bridal attire, showcasing elegance and craftsmanship.

     

    Manipuri bride in Khudang choker and beaded hairpieces

    Meghalaya 

    Paila and Silver Bangles Paila, a gold disc necklace, is worn as a symbol of prosperity and is deeply rooted in Khasi traditions. 

     

    Khasi Paila 

    Mizoram 

    Traditional Bead Necklaces Intricate bead necklaces and silver belts are worn by Mizo brides, symbolizing purity and tradition.

     

    Copper Bracelet, like those worn in Mizo weddings, on Display, Vietnamese Women's Museum

    Nagaland

    In Nagaland, bridal jewelry is a vital expression of cultural identity, with each piece holding deep significance. Among the most striking adornments is the red coral bead necklace, a traditional piece that symbolizes both status and wealth within Naga society. Red coral, considered a precious and rare material, has been used in Naga bridal jewelry for centuries, with its vibrant color representing vitality, strength, and prosperity. The necklace is usually composed of large, carefully selected coral beads, which are strung together to create a visually captivating piece that stands out during wedding ceremonies and celebrations.

    The red coral bead necklace is not just a decorative item but a powerful symbol of the bride’s family’s status in the community. In many Naga tribes, the size and intricacy of the coral necklace can reflect the bride’s social standing, with wealthier families presenting more elaborate designs. This jewelry piece also holds cultural significance, representing the bride’s transition into a new phase of life. It is believed to bring protection, good fortune, and blessings to the couple as they begin their married life.

    The use of red coral beads in bridal jewelry also ties into the Naga people’s deep connection to nature. Coral, often sourced from the seas surrounding the region, is viewed as a natural gift that brings prosperity and good luck. This tradition continues to be an important part of Naga weddings, with brides wearing the necklace as a mark of beauty, tradition, and the collective wealth of their family and community. The red coral bead necklace remains an iconic and cherished piece of Naga bridal jewelry, blending cultural heritage with timeless elegance.

     

    Traditional Naga red coral necklace 

    Tripura

    In Tripura, bridal jewelry plays a significant role in symbolizing cultural heritage and personal identity, with the Risha and silver chokers standing out as essential adornments in the traditional Tripuri wedding attire. The Risha, a beaded belt, is one of the most important pieces of jewelry worn by the bride during her wedding ceremony. Made from colorful beads and intricately woven threads, the Risha is worn around the waist and is considered a symbol of honor, beauty, and fertility. Its vibrant colors and delicate craftsmanship highlight the bride’s grace, while its placement signifies the bride’s readiness to embrace her new life as a married woman.

    The Risha is not only an aesthetic piece but also holds deep cultural meaning in Tripura, where it is believed to bring good fortune and protect the bride from evil forces. The beads used in the belt are often selected with care, and the design varies depending on the specific traditions of different Tripuri communities. The Risha is thus not just a decorative item but a representation of the bride’s status and the value placed on her in the community.

    In addition to the Risha, silver chokers are another crucial part of the Tripuri bridal ensemble. These chokers, crafted from finely worked silver, are worn around the bride’s neck, adding a regal touch to her overall appearance. The silver choker symbolizes wealth, purity, and tradition, and is often complemented with other traditional jewelry pieces such as earrings and armlets. The intricate designs on the silver chokers reflect the skill of Tripuri artisans and the rich cultural history of the region.

    Together, the Risha and silver chokers contribute to the bride’s stunning appearance, while also embodying the values of honor, tradition, and beauty that are deeply rooted in Tripura’s wedding customs. 

     

    Tripura red risa belt 

    Bihar

    In Bihar, bridal jewelry includes traditional pieces like Tikuli, a decorative forehead ornament, and Kangan, bangles that symbolize marital status. These ornaments are deeply tied to cultural practices, with each piece holding significance in the life of the bride. The Shakha Pola, white conch shell bangles, are also commonly worn by Bihari brides, symbolizing purity and marital bliss.

     

    Shankha Pola - a standout bangle made outoff sea shells, common in bihar & bengal

    Odisha

    In Odisha, bridal jewelry is distinguished by the intricate Filigree work, often crafted from fine silver. Brides wear Bindi as a forehead ornament, which represents auspiciousness and spiritual connection. Odisha’s jewelry reflects the artistry and devotion of its craftspeople.

    Sikkim

    Sikkimese brides adorn themselves with Lai (necklaces) and Chumbi (earrings), which are crafted from silver and often feature elaborate designs. These pieces signify prosperity and are integral to the state’s wedding traditions, combining elegance with cultural heritage.

    Jharkhand

    Bridal jewelry in Jharkhand often includes Karam Chinha, a traditional forehead ornament, and Ghukra, circular earrings. These pieces are worn by tribal brides and symbolize honor, fertility, and the bride’s connection to her ancestral roots.

     

    Latest Blogs