How to choose authentic Kalamkari and Pichwai: A buyer’s guide

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By Tuba Ali

  • Art
  • Painting
  • Folk Art
  • India

    • Table of Content

    I remember the first time I visited Jaipur, Rajasthan, strolling through bazaars of the Pink City and was suddenly drawn to the intricate patterns of Pichwai painting. As I marvelled at it closely, I couldn’t help but wonder if this piece was authentic or just a reproduction. After all, the essence of traditional art lies in its craftsmanship. This guide will help you navigate how to choose authentic Kalamkari and Pichwai Paintings. 

    What makes Kalamkari and Pichwai unique

    Both Kalamkari and Pichwai art have ancient origins and unique cultural significance. Kalamkari is derived from the Persian words Kalam (pen) and Kari (craftmanship) but the art is purely of ancient Indian origins. Its existence can be traced back to around 3000 years ago. Kalamkari involves 23 meticulous steps from preparing the fabric to creating divine and nature-inspired motifs. This art form is known for its earthy tones such as Indigo and mustard, it is categorised into two styles: Srikalahasti, that includes using the Kalam from base drawing till the intricate filling of colors, and Machilipatnam, which includes base drawing done by blocks and intricate detailing by Kalams. This art form flourished during the Mughal era and is practised by artists in Andhra Pradesh. A unique form of Kalamkari is also practiced in Tamil Nadu.  

     

    Tree of Life in Kalamkari by Harinath N

     

    Shrinathji's Gopashtami in Pichwai by Naveen Soni

     

    Pichwai art, on the other hand, is known for its intricate textile work, which originated around 400 years ago in Nathdwara, Rajasthan. The word Pichwai is derived from ‘Pich’ meaning back, and ‘wai’ translates as hanging. These paintings are traditionally hung behind the idol of Shrinathji, a manifestation of Krishna as a seven year old. Pichwai paintings depict scenes from Krishna’s life, festivals, and motifs such as lotuses and cows. Usually made on cloth, this art form is known for the use of natural colours. 

    How to Identify authentic Kalamkari artworks

     

    Krishna and Radha in Kalamkari by K. Lakshminarayan

     

    Understanding the historical roots of the art ensures that the artwork you select is authentic and not a mass-produced imitation. However, there are several layers to identifying authentic art pieces. First and foremost, look for natural colours. Authentic Kalamkari artworks use naturally derived dyes from plants, fruits, roots, buds, etc. While differentiating between natural and synthetic pigments may prove to be challenging, differentiating hand-painted from machine-printed is easy. Mass production is possible even with natural or synthetic colour; therefore, it is crucial to pay attention to the inherent inconsistencies within the artwork. Even identical themes will exhibit  subtle variations in hand-painted pieces, a hallmark of the artisan process. Furthermore, the fabric itself provides valuable clues; genuine Kalamkari typically utilizes cotton cloth treated with locally sourced materials such as milk and myrobalan. Finally, a distinctive, pungent odor emanating from the naturally processed cloth serves as a key indicator of authenticity, persisting even in decades-old pieces, albeit subtly. Authentic artworks are often certified by the government or trusted organisations such as MeMeraki to ensure the artwork adheres to traditional methods. Finally, it is better to source art pieces from renowned hubs like Srikalahasti and Machilipatnam or purchase them from credible art galleries such as MeMeraki. 

    How to Identify authentic Pichwai artworks

     

    Khejri Pujan In Pichwai by Naveen Soni

     

    Identification of authentic Pichwai is crucial and necessitates a thorough understanding of the traditional techniques and process. When acquiring a Pichwai artwork, material verification is paramount. Authentic and genuine Pichwai paintings are generally done on cloth or canvases using natural mineral or stone based pigments. It is important to scrutinize the intricate details, such as the depiction of characteristic motifs such as lotuses, flute, river, etc. These motifs should not be rudimentary, and incorporate detailings of their own. The extensive detailing, requiring months of artisan labour distinguishes authentic paintings from the mass-produced imitations. Texture analysis is valuable in Pichwai paintings; authentic paintings would exhibit a slight raised paint surface due to layered application, a characteristic absent in hastily executed, single-layered reproductions. At the same time, the application of paint should be effortless, smooth and even, devoid of any irregularities. The application of gold and silver foil should be seamless, hiding the underlying paint layer completely. Regardless of the dimensions, the Pichwai paintings should be executed on a single, unbroken cloth or canvas, unless it is of an exorbitant size. It is important to procure paintings from reputable organisations such as MeMeraki to ensure the authenticity of the paintings while supporting the artistic heritage.

    Verifying Authenticity: What to Ask the Seller

    When verifying authentic art pieces always ask the seller detailed questions about the origins, where it was created, and who the artist is. For Kalamkari, inquire if natural dyes were used and if the fabric was prepared traditionally and treated with milk and Myrobalan.

    For Pichwai, it is always important to confirm if the artwork is hand-painted because authentic pieces have intricate brushwork and traditional motifs. Request certificates of authenticity, for both Kalamkari and Pichwai, which may be certified by cultural organisations or government bodies. Also, inquire about the seller's sourcing practices and familiarity with traditional art hubs like Srikalahasti, Machilipatnam, or Nathdwara, as these regions are known for their craftsmanship.

    Conclusion

    Authentic Kalamkari and Pichwai artworks represent centuries of tradition, skill, and cultural importance. To ensure you are investing in genuine pieces, focus on identifying natural dyes, hand-painted details, and traditional materials. To confirm authenticity, source from famous art hubs, reputable galleries, or certified sellers such as MeMeraki and ask the right questions to verify the origin and authenticity of the artwork. Becoming an informed buyer buys you a timeless piece while also contributing to the maintenance of these heritage crafts as well as the livelihood of skilled artisans.

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