Mukaish Work: The Glittering Legacy of Lucknow’s Timeless Craft

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By Vanirathi Nathani

  • Craft
  • India

    • Table of Content

    Lucknow has always been a city of elegance. From the time of the Nawabs, it has been a place where art, culture, and fashion thrived. The narrow lanes of old Lucknow still carry whispers of a time when courtesans draped themselves in the finest fabrics, embroidered with delicate patterns that shimmered under the glow of chandeliers. The world knows of Chikankari, the intricate shadow work embroidery that has become synonymous with Lucknow, but another craft, equally mesmerizing yet lesser known, is Mukaish work.

    Mukaish work is not just embroidery—it is a reflection of Lucknow’s royal past, its timeless grace, and the hands that have kept this craft alive despite changing times. This art form, which once adorned the clothing of nobility, is now rare, practiced by only a handful of artisans in the bustling bylanes of Chowk.

    Lucknow; Great Emambara and Mosque - PICRYL - Public Domain Media Search Engine Public Domain Search

    Lucknow – a center of art, fashion and culture

    A Craft Born in Royalty

    Mukaish work was created for luxury. Originally, it involved the use of real gold and silver threads, making it exclusive to the royals and the wealthy elite. It was not just embroidery; it was a statement of opulence. Over time, as gold and silver became expensive, artisans adapted, replacing them with metallic-coated threads while still maintaining the same painstaking attention to detail.

    While Mukaish work was once seen as an embellishment for Chikankari, adding a subtle shimmer to the otherwise soft cotton embroidery, it also had a life of its own. In its purest form, entire sarees were woven with Mukaish embroidery, turning fabric into something that looked like a night sky scattered with stars.

    The Making of Mukaish: A Test of Skill and Patience

    Mukaish work is not an easy craft. It follows a three-step process that requires immense skill and patience:

    Chapaayi (Printing the Design) – The process begins with transferring the embroidery design onto the fabric. Artisans use a mix of gum and indigo powder, applying it through either a wooden block or a perforated stencil to create an outline.


    File:Method of Block printing Chikankari.jpg

    block printing designs of embroidery

    Takaayi (Embedding the Metal Wires) – This is where the magic happens. Thin metal wires, once made of gold and silver, are now created using alloys. These wires are heated, stretched, and flattened until they become paper-thin. Using a needle, the artisan weaves these wires into the fabric, making tiny stitches that catch the light with every movement.

     

    D'source Takaayi | Making Process | D'Source Digital Online Learning Environment for Design: Courses, Resources, Case Studies, Galleries, Videos

    Ghutaayi (Polishing for Shine) – The final step is where the embroidery is burnished. The fabric is laid flat, and the metal threads are rubbed with either a glass bottle or cowrie shells. This step smooths the metal and enhances its shine, creating the iconic shimmer that makes Mukaish work so unique.

    Styles of Mukaish Work

    Mukaish embroidery comes in two primary forms:

    Fardi Ka Kaam – This is the simpler and more widely recognized form of Mukaish, where tiny dots of metal are stitched into the fabric. These dots are arranged in patterns and have different names based on their design:

    • Hazaar Batti – A pattern of thousands of tiny dots, making the fabric sparkle like a starry sky.
    • Tikki – Small flattened sequins that add a soft glimmer.
    • Challa – Tiny metallic rings stitched onto the fabric.

    Kamdani – A more elaborate and intricate form of Mukaish work. Here, the metal wires are attached to a length of thread, allowing artisans to weave them into various motifs and patterns. Kamdani is considered ‘fancy kaam’ and is usually done by elderly artisans who have perfected the craft over decades.


    File:Kamdani.jpg

    Kamdani, also known as Fardi ka Kaam, is a traditional metal embroidery from Lucknow, introduced to India by the Mughals in the 16th century.

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    Hazaar batti

    The Rise, Decline, and Revival of Mukaish Work

    Despite its beauty, Mukaish work saw a decline. It is time-consuming, requires skilled artisans, and is expensive to produce. As machine-made embellishments became more common, the demand for handmade Mukaish embroidery dropped. Today, only a handful of artisans, mostly from the Muslim community in old Lucknow, continue this craft. They work in small workshops, their hands moving swiftly yet carefully, keeping alive a tradition that once defined luxury.

    However, designers and brands are slowly bringing Mukaish work back. Fashion houses like Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla have incorporated it into high-fashion designs, making it visible on global platforms. Artisans are also finding new ways to blend Mukaish with contemporary styles, ensuring that this centuries-old craft does not fade into history.

    Where to Find Mukaish Work Today

    For those looking to own a piece of this heritage, Aminabad Market in Lucknow remains a hub for authentic Mukaish and Chikankari work. From delicate dupattas to grand sarees, this market carries pieces that hold within them stories of the artisans who created them.

    Chaos - Lucknow special | Aminabad, Lucknow. | DraconianRain | Flickr

    AMINABAD MARKET

    A Legacy That Shines On

    Mukaish work is more than just embroidery—it is a reflection of Lucknow’s past, a craft that has stood the test of time. Each shimmering dot, each intricate motif, is a testament to the patience and skill of the artisans who keep this tradition alive. As long as there are hands willing to weave metal into fabric, Mukaish work will continue to glow, just as it did in the courts of the Nawabs, centuries ago.

    Printing Blocks - Chikankari | © Rajesh Pamnani 2017 | Flickr

    Mukaish workshops – those still surviving, where time remains still


    References

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